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Writer's pictureemmapepperdine

Getting My Head Around Grading - AoP Week 9

Updated: Mar 26, 2019

Monday and Tuesday were typical admin days. Turning up to work Monday morning I was greeted by a stack of emails from the factory, suppliers and manufactures. It took me a while to work my way through them all, making sure to get the right information out to the right people. Once all the emails had been replied to, I then had more to send! But this time chasing people for missing invoices and finding out the statues of different trims. When I first started I had felt bad chasing people. I had always felt like I was being annoying, so didn’t want to be the one to constantly chase things. However that’s now changed and I can see the important of the job. As long as you go about it the right way, it’s something that has to be done, especially when working to super tight deadlines and been ten time scales that are not being stuck to. The days flew by and after finishing Tuesday with more work on the expenses files, I didn’t know where the time had gone!


Monday Mornings

The rest of the week held the slightly more interesting work and I got to try my hand at a bit of grading. Having never done grading before, to begin with it all went over my head. But it was broken down to me and as Cristina worked she spoke her thinking, allowing me to follow along with the process. I learnt about how for different elements of a design there needs to be different grade rules between different sizes, especially when you go down to XXS. I also learnt about the tolerance of sizing. This is something that I hadn’t thought about before so was interesting to learn. To put it into simple terms there are parts of a garment that have to be more accurate than others in order for the garment to work when being constructed. This allows slight leeway when sewing, for example, a side seam may have a 0.5 +/- tolerance as this would not change the look of the garment as such, whereas binding on a cuff would be more likely to only have a 0.1 +/- tolerance.


Measurements and Grading

As someone who has always enjoyed pattern cutting, it was great to learn more about a different skillset within the area. I hope that over the coming months I get to do more of this type of work and that I can put what I learnt this week into practice.


Lunch Break

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